ANDY FEINBERG, CHEF DE CUISINE
One of my favorite people on earth is my nephew Andy Feinberg. Some call him Andrew, but he’s always been Andy to me. Honest, loving, sensitive, gentle, kind, consistent, reliable, generous, hard-working, handsome and a culinary mastermind. Who knew that he and Francine, his wife and kindred spirit, would become the creative geniuses behind Franny’s and BKLYN Larder, both Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn mainstays which, in their relatively short time in business, have received rave reviews from food critics and clientele alike, and have brought new life to the area. Don’t take my word for it. Google them. Read the tons of articles in the New York Times, in New York Magazine, and online at websites like Chowhound which sing their praises. And then go check them out. If you’re not both amazed and impressed, I’d like to hear why.
It’s hard not to connect with their simple yet exquisite dishes where flavors and tastes are subtly layered in and unfold as you work your way through them. And then, there’s their philosophy of sustainability and openness that permeates everything they do, and the vibe of warmth and connectivity that I get when I eat at Franny’s. Sitting at a table, I feel part of a greater community of people coming together to eat and to share with each other. It’s a feeling I can’t say I’ve had much in a restaurant. More like how I feel when I go to Saturday minyan services, which I try to do as often as I can. It’s a sense of taking time out to experience, relate, and rejuvenate. There’s an almost spiritual aspect to it. No matter what I’ve eaten, I leave feeling refreshed, connected and extremely satisfied and content.
Both Franny’s and BKLYN Larder pride themselves on using fruits, vegetables, dairy and eggs, meat and fish procured almost entirely from local and organic producers, the coffee certified as fair-trade. Andy and his staff make their own sausages and cure their own meats. They also practice eco-friendly strategies which include converting kitchen grease to biodiesel fuel and using biodegradable takeout containers and environmentally correct cleaning products.
So, I asked Andy if he would answer some questions I had about olive oil, of which I know very little. Not Popeye’s Olive Oil. I’m old enough to know about her. It’s the other olive oil I’m talking about. The Larder offers a very particular selection (everything at Franny’s and Larder is particular and done with great thought) for purchase and also has a handsome stainless steel fusto perched on its counter from which olive oil can be dispensed into dark glass bottles well-suited for storage in your kitchen pantry. So, what follows are my questions to Andy, and his responses on the topic of olive oil.
CMH: What are your current favorite olive oils?
AF: 1. Manicaretti extra virgin olive oil : Titone
………2. Gustiamo Disisa Extra Virgin Olive Oil
………3. Trevi Extra Virgin Olive Oil
………4. Tibvrtini Extra Virgin Olive Oil
CMH: What do you look for in an olive oil in terms of taste, consistency, smell and feel?
AF: I like oils that taste like olives. I look for balance and a pure clean taste. Smell is very important. A good oil should smell of either fruit, flowers or green leaves.
CMH: Where do the best olive oils come from?
AF: Italy, of course!
CMH: What is the real difference between virgin and extra virgin oils, and can an olive even be promiscuous in that way?
AF: Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality oil available. The acidity of the oil must be below 1%. Lesser olive oils have a higher acidity and therefore are not as delicate and have been obtained from 2nd and 3rd pressings. As for the second part of your question, I don’t think so. Maybe in Italy?
CMH: What is it about the oils you selected that make them special?
AF: I love these oils because they are delicious and they make my food taste better.
Thanks Andy for everything you do. I’m so proud of you and I love you.
Caryn
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