The Symmetry of Giving. Katrina Five Years Out.
I was incredibly privileged to spend the last week in New Orleans – NOLA, as it’s called, even the acronym sweet and easy – among volunteers who descended from across the country to take part in Habitat for Humanity’s ‘5 houses within 5 days buildathon’ to commemorate Katrina’s 5th anniversary. Because we had volunteered with New Orleans Habitat for Humanity before, we were among those invited to be a part of this historic effort.
The work took place in the 7th Ward, a poor area smashed to bits by Katrina’s wrath, and the goal was truly ambitious. Five foundations having been poured, we had 5 days to complete the framing, siding, roofing, windows and external doors on 5 lots. We labored in daunting conditions – oppressive humidity and a sizzling sun from which there was no escape. And the work itself – lifting and moving ladders and heavy materials, installing roofing, siding, insulation and windows, taping and caulking – was so exhausting that by the end of the day, we were barely able to walk the short distance back to our car which was parked just around the block.
And yet, the experience was nothing short of exhilarating. It’s hard not to fall deeply and irretrievably in love with the people of New Orleans, so gentle and unassuming, yet so resourceful and determined. Accustomed to asking for and receiving nothing, they sit in silent disbelief as Habitat volunteers and community members move in like a wave, bringing life, renewal and hope to communities wracked by devastation and despair. Like Christmas in August. An elderly man in a Cleveland Indians cap sitting on the porch of his modest home, watching as two abandoned garbage strewn lots across the street are transformed into dwellings. A young woman sitting on a stoop, young child in her arms, standing up to dance and cheer as the roof of one of the houses is raised. The quiet dignity and unbreakable spirit of those whose suffering can be seen in their tired eyes touched me in ways profound and unexpected, and left me feeling connected and moved beyond imagination.
Working side by side of volunteers of all races, ages, economic status, religion, places of origin and political spectrum, I couldn’t help but feel grounded, alive, inspired, purposeful and ultimately joyful. Hot, tired, sweaty, achy but spiritually soothed and joyful.
So, for the last five days, that’s where you’d find me and my family – on a lot at the corner of Frenchmen and N. Roman – defying the heat and pushing the limits of physical endurance and my abilities, in order to do my small part in a grand grass-roots movement of rebuilding and renewal. And through my efforts, I was able to experience my own sense of spiritual rebirth, an unexpected gift that will sustain me for some time to come.
ON FREEDOM
Have you ever thought about freedom? I mean really really thought about it, and about what it takes to create a society where dissent and differences are tolerated, even embraced (albeit not always happily), because they’re understood to ultimately facilitate and inform a more enlightened majority point of view. Have you ever thought about the personal sacrifices that have been made over time to sustain such a society – our society — imperfections and all?
Would you have had the guts to stand tall with the Patriots at Lexington and Concord or at Bunker Hill – a ragtag assembly of untrained, undisciplined farmers, craftsmen, artisans and the like – and face down the strongest, best trained and best equipped army in the world, risking life, income, everything – your world as you knew it? Would you have been willing to risk imprisonment by offering shelter, comfort, a slice of bread or a drink of water to an escaped slave who, with nowhere else to go, happened to knock at your farmhouse door in the dead of a wintry night? The many examples of such courage throughout the history of our great country go on and on, and the question remains the same. What would you have done? What would I have done?
I deeply fear that I wouldn’t have had the courage to rise to the occasion, to stand up at my own peril against injustice, in support of freedom and the supremacy of the rule of law. Yes, it’s easy to be principled when the risks are minimal. To stand up when the going gets tough, though, takes the kind of courage I can only dream of possessing. And while that disappoints me about my own moral fiber, it helps me to truly appreciate the strength of character and conviction of those who came before me, who put themselves in harm’s way in support of a belief, a principle, an idea, an abstraction – the concept of a society in which the people are imbued with certain rights and freedoms and the power to enforce their will through the government they establish.
And so, on this July 4 holiday, I urge you to take a moment to reflect on the sacrifices of those who have come before to bring us the many freedoms we enjoy, and to consider what personal sacrifices we as a people might be called on to make in order to sustain our freedoms for generations to come. Let us honor all those who have worked to create this powerful, wonderful, yet imperfect, legacy of American democracy
To Everything There Is A Season…
‘To everything there is a season, and a time to every purpose under heaven.”
Whether you know it as Ecclesiastes 3:1-8 or the Byrd’s 60’s hit, ‘Turn, Turn, Turn’, the passage is profound and beautiful. I love it because it tells me to live life to its fullest, to look for and savor the many moments of joy and beauty it offers. And that’s what I try to do – everyday.
And so, I’m excited to share news of an impending moment of joy and family connection. Tonight, Shelley Hirshleifer’s daughter, Marci (and niece to myself and my sister Lori) will get married. Because she would kill me if she knew I was writing about her wedding, I will say only that her heavenly husband-to-be, Chris, is an incredible guy – mature, caring, responsible, honest and smart. We are thrilled to welcome him and his family into our midst.
And for the bride to be, the sensitive, caring, kind-hearted, zany Marci – the first of our fifth generation at Hirshleifer’s – we send her our love. We wish Marci and Chris a long full life, health and much happiness, and, most importantly, the ability to look for and savor its precious moments of beauty and joy … because to everything there is a season.
With great love from all of us.
Caryn Hirshleifer
Thank You, Eric Gaskins
Eric Gaskins’ blog post of last week, wherein he tackles the question of what is fashion and why it matters, inspired a host of impassioned comments from readers determined to weigh in on a subject that touched them profoundly. The dialogue that unfolded, as comments and responses went back and forth, fascinated me. I wanted to join the discussion, but the more I thought about it, the more I realized that I was at a loss for what to say. That doesn’t happen very often.
And my ruminations led me to think about why. Why didn’t I approach the idea of fashion with the same passion, energy and sense of wonderment that was manifest in what the commentators wrote in response to Eric’s post? Why could others, and not me, connect with fashion they way I connect with a Monet or a Michelangelo? What does fashion really mean to me and what place does it inhabit in my world? Like a religious leader who doesn’t believe in God, am I a fraud, writing fashion blogs without appreciating the magic of fashion, the myriad of things it represents to so many?
And then it occurred to me why. I grew up in a household where fashion – the art form – was eclipsed by fashion – the business model – and where names like Norman Norell, Paulene Trigere, Originalla, and the likes, floated across the dinner table not so much for the contribution each made to fashion but for how their pieces should be merchandised, who else carried them, were their goods shipped timely? The fashion, we never quite got to – the lines, the shapes, the colors, the fabrics, the textures, the workmanship, the statement made by the pieces was all taken for granted. Sort of like having a great antique vase in your living room and thinking only about how much to insure it for and how to maintain it, missing the opportunity to appreciate its beauty and artistic elements.
And once you begin to think of fashion for the pure sake of fashion – you come away with a new appreciation for your role as an owner of a fashion business. You begin to see yourself as a custodian or trustee, a caretaker, whose role is not merely to ensure the continuation of the business (which in and of itself is a great challenge), but to do so in a way where you support and foster the true art of fashion, with all of its transformative creative elements. Such a task, I fear, is easier said than done.
Thanks Eric, for getting me to the point of thinking about this.
Caryn Hirshleifer
The Dogs Of Hirshleifers
Kristen Farrell & the Power of Real
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There’s something about a person who loves to read that leaves me feeling immediately and intensely connected with them. I find that those who truly love books – who travel through them to places distant and remote – share a sense of community and connectedness with each other that transcends what they do, almost who they are. If you and I love the same books, we know each other. We identify with the same experiences, dreams, fears, and challenges.
And so, when I first met the extraordinarily talented Kristen Farrell – painter, sculptor, goldsmith, fine jewelry designer, and only 28 years old – what struck me was not just the sheer power and majesty of her jewels, but the fact that she, like me, is and has always been a lover of books – a devotee of stories and adventures that leave her mind rich with people and elements from times medieval to the present, places real and imagined, simple and fantastical. Exotic caravan routes that crisscrossed India, tall menacing spires on Gothic churches in England, tales of love lost and love found, are all part of her canvass, the stage on which she creates her work. This rich tapestry of images informs both her and her work, rendering both Kristen and her work disarmingly and refreshingly pure, intense and deep. I’m amazed at how someone so young can know so much about life, and also be willing to lay bare her soul to a judgmental world.
There are so many cool things in Kristen’s collection. Just their names evoke a strong sense of fantasy. There are mystical talon bracelets, shield and star pendants, wolverine rings, angel wings rings, dagger earrings, knight earrings, lancelot pendants, creature heart pendants and armor bangles. Each piece has its own story and holds its own magic.
Once upon a time there was a little girl named Kristen, who fell in love with the magic and mystery of brightly colored beads, and dreamed of growing up to create fantastic jewelry. With tenacity, and a sensitivity and openness which permitted her to take in the beauty of the human experience, Kristen has emerged as the lead character in her own bedtime story. And the story is one that’s both amazing and inspirational.
ANDY FEINBERG, CHEF DE CUISINE
One of my favorite people on earth is my nephew Andy Feinberg. Some call him Andrew, but he’s always been Andy to me. Honest, loving, sensitive, gentle, kind, consistent, reliable, generous, hard-working, handsome and a culinary mastermind. Who knew that he and Francine, his wife and kindred spirit, would become the creative geniuses behind Franny’s and BKLYN Larder, both Flatbush Avenue, Brooklyn mainstays which, in their relatively short time in business, have received rave reviews from food critics and clientele alike, and have brought new life to the area. Don’t take my word for it. Google them. Read the tons of articles in the New York Times, in New York Magazine, and online at websites like Chowhound which sing their praises. And then go check them out. If you’re not both amazed and impressed, I’d like to hear why.
It’s hard not to connect with their simple yet exquisite dishes where flavors and tastes are subtly layered in and unfold as you work your way through them. And then, there’s their philosophy of sustainability and openness that permeates everything they do, and the vibe of warmth and connectivity that I get when I eat at Franny’s. Sitting at a table, I feel part of a greater community of people coming together to eat and to share with each other. It’s a feeling I can’t say I’ve had much in a restaurant. More like how I feel when I go to Saturday minyan services, which I try to do as often as I can. It’s a sense of taking time out to experience, relate, and rejuvenate. There’s an almost spiritual aspect to it. No matter what I’ve eaten, I leave feeling refreshed, connected and extremely satisfied and content.
Both Franny’s and BKLYN Larder pride themselves on using fruits, vegetables, dairy and eggs, meat and fish procured almost entirely from local and organic producers, the coffee certified as fair-trade. Andy and his staff make their own sausages and cure their own meats. They also practice eco-friendly strategies which include converting kitchen grease to biodiesel fuel and using biodegradable takeout containers and environmentally correct cleaning products.
So, I asked Andy if he would answer some questions I had about olive oil, of which I know very little. Not Popeye’s Olive Oil. I’m old enough to know about her. It’s the other olive oil I’m talking about. The Larder offers a very particular selection (everything at Franny’s and Larder is particular and done with great thought) for purchase and also has a handsome stainless steel fusto perched on its counter from which olive oil can be dispensed into dark glass bottles well-suited for storage in your kitchen pantry. So, what follows are my questions to Andy, and his responses on the topic of olive oil.
CMH: What are your current favorite olive oils?
AF: 1. Manicaretti extra virgin olive oil : Titone
………2. Gustiamo Disisa Extra Virgin Olive Oil
………3. Trevi Extra Virgin Olive Oil
………4. Tibvrtini Extra Virgin Olive Oil
CMH: What do you look for in an olive oil in terms of taste, consistency, smell and feel?
AF: I like oils that taste like olives. I look for balance and a pure clean taste. Smell is very important. A good oil should smell of either fruit, flowers or green leaves.
CMH: Where do the best olive oils come from?
AF: Italy, of course!
CMH: What is the real difference between virgin and extra virgin oils, and can an olive even be promiscuous in that way?
AF: Extra virgin olive oil is the highest quality oil available. The acidity of the oil must be below 1%. Lesser olive oils have a higher acidity and therefore are not as delicate and have been obtained from 2nd and 3rd pressings. As for the second part of your question, I don’t think so. Maybe in Italy?
CMH: What is it about the oils you selected that make them special?
AF: I love these oils because they are delicious and they make my food taste better.
Thanks Andy for everything you do. I’m so proud of you and I love you.
Caryn
A Conversation with Aerial Photographer Andrea Sanders
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Andrea Sanders graduated from the University of Virginia in 1991 with a BA in both Fine Art and English Literature. In 1996 she received an MFA from the School of Visual Arts Department of Photography and Related Media, culminating in an exhibit of photographic mixed media works at the Visual Arts Gallery in Soho. She followed at the Bronx Museum’s Artists in the Marketplace seminar program, which resulted in a 1997 museum exhibition and, since then, has exhibited in numerous group shows in and around New York City. Her studio is located in Brooklyn, where she also resides. What follows is a brief conversation between Caryn Hirshleifer and Andrea Sanders.
Caryn: Why aerial photography? How did you get into that medium and why do you like it?
Andrea: I have always been interested in the disconnect between the stillness of our surroundings (the earth, architecture, etc) and the movement of time. We live among things of relative permanence, yet our lives are in constant forward motion and are anything but permanent. I began exploring this idea by photographing houses from moving cars. That eventually and remarkably naturally morphed into photographing the earth and the marks we make on it from planes. I travel a lot for business and pleasure, so I began just shooting from commercial flights. I like aerial photography in part because it gives us a perspective on the world (and our place in it) that is at once very unusual and very familiar.
Caryn: What are you seeking to capture when you shoot open spaces from the sky?
Andrea: I’m interested in capturing the ways in which we try to control our world. Houses, for example, literally ground us to the earth and supposedly protect us from the chaos outside. All of the marks we make on the earth — buildings, crop circles, bridges and roads, etc — are on some level our way of proving our existence, of literally “making our mark” and defying the fact that at the end of the day, we don’t have control and we ourselves are not permanent. By documenting a place in time, by making a photograph, I become part of the attempt to hold on to things that can’t be kept, to stop time, to stay still. I gravitate toward relatively empty, open and even generic spaces, as opposed to congested, urban spaces. There is a quietness in these open spaces that I think invites contemplation. Seeing a lone farmhouse from the sky, one wonders what lives have been lived and lost in that singular place over time.
Caryn: In an aerial composition, what artistic elements do you look for?
Andrea: I try to keep an open mind when looking out the window. But I do find the geometry that we inflict on the earth to be particularly fascinating. To me it symbolizes the order we need in our lives to feel in control. I’m not looking for a very sharp level of detail. I actually prefer a softness to the images. We move through life seeing things–and remembering things–as a bit of a blur, not in perfect focus, so I want the images to reflect that. The result is also that the images look somewhat like paintings, which adds a whole other dimension to the work.
Caryn: What is your favorite aerial shot and why?
Andrea: This is a tough question. I find it hard to commit to just one, but if I had to choose I would say that “Untitled (2 barns & space)” might be my favorite. In its minimalism and simplicity I think it conveys very clearly the sense of melancholy and reverence for beauty that is at the heart of my work.
Check out Andrea’s website at www.andreasanders.net. Her digital photographic images can also be seen and purchased at Hirshleifers as well as at Americana Manhasset’s Concierge.
PAUL REVERE, SELF-EXPRESSION AND SEEING RED
I love history because it informs the way we live. It’s not the dates, the battles or the epic moments that I care about. It’s the ideas that fascinate me – the underlying beliefs and philosophies of the people who lived during different times. And with the 18th of April having just passed – the anniversary of the midnight ride of Paul Revere — I am reminded of the power of ideas, the power of beliefs so passionately held that people are willing to risk life, limb and family in order to exercise them.
Which brings me to the notion of self-expression, the uniquely American idea born of the American Revolution. Our founding fathers valued self-expression as an end in itself because it affirms the dignity of every member of society, and leads to the realization of a person’s full potential. And with self-expression comes music, art, and, of course, fashion, one of its ultimate and yet basic manifestations.
To say that there is a connection between the political system in which one lives and the ability to express oneself through fashion is an understatement. We are extremely fortunate to be able to come and go as we please and to exercise the many personal freedoms we partake in. But even in the most oppressive regimes, where rules tell women what they must wear, if and when they can go out of the home and with whom, there can still be found the subtle elements of personal style – how she places her hair, how she buttons her dress, how she folds her socks or leggings – because even in the most politically repressive places, people still have the need to express themselves as individuals. Indeed, self-expression is a fundamental human need that imbues one with a sense of self-determination and power, even where they realistically have none. It transcends political systems, religious systems or any other system because it is a human system which brings us all together no matter where we live or what we believe in.
So, as we remember Paul Revere and contemplate how his ride advanced the cause of self-expression, there’s one piece of fashion advice that stays with me, because it could have altered the course of history: This goes out to all you British soldiers. Remember: when marching through the forests of New England trying not to be noticed, you might consider wearing a color other than red.
Caryn Hirshleifer
Mark Davis, Master Craftsman. Life’s Too Short For Compromises
I thought I knew a lot about Mark Davis, master craftsman of Bakelite, that synthetic –resin chemically formulated plastic material of yesteryear. I knew his iconic cuffs and bangles, made in exquisite colors and embedded with precious stones. I knew his reputation for workmanship. I knew his irreverent and slightly self-deprecating sense of humor that puts a smile on my face because it reminds me that in his life, in my life, in all lives, stuff happens and the best-laid plans can and do go awry.
So when I had the opportunity to speak with Mark Davis the other day about his past and what inspires him, I was surprised to see that there was so much more I didn’t know about Mark Davis, a jeweler obsessed with the details of technology, manufacturing techniques and methods. Bakelite, for Mark, is not just any medium, but a medium he has come to understand and love, a medium from a different time and place – from the pre-1940’s before people started making jewelry with petrochemicals and petroleum products. Bakelite is 100% man-made, a material from a time when life was slower and things seemed to have more meaning.
Mark works the Bakelite like ivory, and, in fact, describes the material as post-modern ivory. Bakelite must be cast, each piece sliced, cut, shaped. It is a labor intensive work of love, with so many steps involved that pieces sometimes take months to complete. And because Bakelite is not currently made, it has to be collected from pre-existing sources, procured in whatever size, shape and condition it can be found in. Mark then , carves, reshapes and reconfigures the pieces to give them new life.
I also saw a side of Mark that reflected his devotion and dedication to the study of his art. At Parsons, where he went to study sculpture, he became interested in jewelry and pursued that field. Not satisfied, he went on to FIT to come to understand the technical aspects of jewelry-making. He became obsessed with how things were made, and the techniques used. At Christie’s, his next stop, he came to observe thousands of pieces of exceptional jewelry, and began to gain a real appreciation for technique and how essential it was to the ultimate success of any piece. He knew that he wanted to design and make his own jewelry, but also knew that he needed funds to be able to do it as he wanted. Thus, he enrolled at NYU where he obtained an MBA, and then worked at JP Morgan for a stint, leaving him financially able to work at his dream.
And in 1999, setting up shop in his apartment, his jewelry making began. It has grown largely and Mark’s name has come to represent quality, creativity, and technical sophistication. Mark Davis absolutely loves what he does – creating beautiful things and doing it well, and feels bad for those not able to spend their life doing something they’re passionate about. Life is too short for compromises. What Mark loves most is his ability to spend his time and energy laboring to make unique individualized pieces for just one person to have and enjoy.
We’ve Been Gooped
We’re excited to report that Hirshleifers has been given a really great shout-out. Gwyneth Paltrow, who was in the store last week, has posted an awesome piece on her shopping experience with us, in Goop.com, her own lifestyle website.
Explaining her philosophy behind the website, Paltrow writes: “My life is good because I am not passive about it. I want to nourish what is real, and I want to do it without wasting time.” Her online newsletters feature favorite recipes, places to travel, shopping experiences, matters of the body, mind and spirit. They offer snippets of advice about life, that you can take away with you should you wish to.
Paltrow writes about Hirshleifers, “I just indulged in a teeny bit of spring shopping (ah, the joy that spring could be around the corner!) and I think I may have found the best store EVER…it’s called Hirshleifers and it’s in Manhasset, Long Island of all places, and it’s been a Long Island girls’ secret for far too long. The girls at this family owned shop are incredible buyers and stylists – everything from Chanel to Boy, Brunello Cucinelli to Acne. It is so worth a trip out there, I can’t even tell you. If not, you can visit their online shop from wherever you may be. They have an exceptionally good menswear selection too.”
Thank you for your visit, Gwyneth, and thanks for your very kind words.
Frank Castagna, Visionary in our Midst
I can count on one hand the true visionaries I’ve been fortunate to come into contact with – the unique individual who can bring people together around a shared purpose and motivate them to reach for the stars. I’m talking about the person who can connect with others, who understands their needs and makes them feel integral to the whole, who sets forth his agenda through persuasion rather than coercion, who is accessible and available, who leads through example, and who takes responsibility for mistakes and willingly and without fear charts a new better course . I think of George Washington, that brilliant leader who rallied people around his sense of decency and vision, and who never expected more from his troops than he himself was willing to give.
So, it is a distinct honor to know and be able to work with modern day visionary, Frank Castagna, owner of Americana Manhasset and Wheatley Plaza shopping centers. But Mr. Castagna is far more than the owner of these two incredible properties. He is the one who has conceived and built them, store by store, turning a dream into some of the most prestigious properties in the country.
When you meet Mr. Castagna, you are struck by how gentle and humble he is, more comfortable deflecting attention and praise onto those around him than accepting it for himself. His understated demeanor hides his curiosity, intelligence, and unbridled energy. This quiet man is one of action, and in fact, is rarely seen without his characteristic pin of a frog that he wears prominently on his lapel, a visible reminder to hopping. Keep looking ahead and keep moving. Know where you’ve come from, but never ever stand still. Challenges and obstacles are met with calmness, as if they are old friends that visit from time to time. Without obstacles, there is no growth. Without challenge, there is no incentive to do things differently. His confidence under fire, his determination and his energy, are an inspiration.
On a weekend day, you can see Mr. Castagna heading to his office bearing The New York Times, Crains, Women’s Wear Daily, Vogue, The Wall Street Journal, and a handful of other journals and periodicals. And come Monday, you can be sure to receive a copy of an article with a personal note, advising of a trend, a new collection, a potential peril, or just a humorous anecdote.
Philanthropy is his calling, and he uses his position at the center to insure that all of his stores give back in meaningful ways. This gentle man is a genius – in his informed management style, in his ability to keep his eye on the ball, in his kindness and humanity, in his energy and sheer unstoppability. Indeed, Frank Castagna is a visionary in our midst, and I am incredibly fortunate to be in the presence of such an inspired and brilliant leader.
Annie Fensterstock – Jewelry by Design
Annie Fensterstock eludes neat and easy categorization because she is and does so many different things. She’s a young woman proficient in the technique of ancient goldsmithing, an inspired jewelry designer and craftsman, an artist who paints, sketches and has a design in mind for everything she sees or thinks about, a mother of two young girls with a boy very much impending, and the wife of business partner and indie film producer, Mike Romero. Her black sketchbooks – she has about 35 of them from the last 20 years or so – contain her quick renderings of clothing, houses, jewelry and just about anything that attracts her attention. They speak to her keen eye and to her fundamental connection to the world through art. There is art in her blood, figuratively and literally; indeed, her grandmother was the famous Margit Beck, cubist and famous abstract expressionist painter known, among other things, for her aerial landscapes. Annie grew up seeing, feeling and ultimately learning art in Margit’s studio. Her mother, as well, is an artist.
For the last five years, Annie has been designing, creating and selling her own collection of handmade jewels under her own name. Art and travel are her source of inspiration. Using no molds, wax carvings or castings, her jewelry is entirely hand fabricated, working from solid metal, creating every link of every chain by hand. Her pieces are made in 18 karat or 22 karat yellow or white gold and platinum. She favors diamonds that are unusual in color and sapphires of hot pinks and moody blues.
Every piece is one of a kind, and indeed, so is Annie. No pretense, no affectation – just Annie doing what comes naturally and what she loves to do. Pure and steadfast as the gold she smiths. Hirshleifers is proud to carry her collection of fine jewelry.
Alexander McQueen
The world of fashion lost one it’s most influential and talented designers last week: Alexander McQueen. Hirshleifers was devastated to learn of the death of this immensely gifted individual, and our thoughts are with his family at this time.
Born in 1969 in London to Scottish taxi driver Ronald and social science teacher Joy, Lee Alexander McQueen served an apprenticeship early in his career with Savile Row tailors where he learned his craft.
After a period of time working for designers abroad, McQueen returned to London and received his masters degree in fashion design at London’s most prestigious fashion school, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. His graduation collection was bought in it’s entirely by influential fashion stylist Isabella Blow. It was Blow’s early faith in his vision that launched his career.
McQueen was one of the youngest designers to achieve the title “British Designer of the Year,” and was named International Designer of the Year by the CFDA. McQueen’s company was acquired by Gucci Group in 2000, and under Gucci’s management McQueen’s brand continued to grow and inspire with outstanding collections each season.
This accomplished designer will be remembered for his inspiration, his creativity, his passion and most of all, undeniable contribution to the world of fashion.
Spotlight on Monique Pean
Every once in a while you meet someone so smart and genuine that simply being in their presence is an inspiration. You come away feeling energized, thinking that anything is possible no matter how cynical your outlook on life, and truly believing that even you in your little corner of the world can make the world a better place. How incredibly refreshing.
Monique Pean is one of those rare persons. I had occasion to first meet her last year when she came to Manhasset to show us her collection of jewels. I’m not sure what knocked me off my feet first, her exquisite collection or her fine personal qualities — her quiet understated intelligence, her warm smile that speaks to the goodness in her heart, her modesty in describing her impressive academic background and stint at Goldman Sachs, and her commitment to social issues and to the environment.
In 2006, Pean launched her collection of sustainable fine jewelry consisting of gorgeous pieces inspired by the indigenous cultures of places such as Haiti, Bali, Alaska and China. Traveling the world, as she did with her family when she was a child, Pean works with indigenous artists to find rare sustainable materials to incorporate into her designs. In her Bering collection, Pean integrates fossilized walrus, caribou and wooly mammoth ivory with recycled gold, stones and conflict free diamonds to make one-of-a-kind pieces.
In her Charity-Water fine jewelry collection, Pean seeks to raise awareness of the more than 1.1 billion people in the world who lack clean drinking water. The collection moves between blues and browns to glistening clear colors. Pean returns a percentage of the proceeds from each piece to Charity-Water to bring clean water into communities in need in developing countries.
Pean’s talent has not gone unnoticed. She was selected as one of the winners of the highly prestigious 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund as well as the Ecco Domani 2009 Fashion Foundation award for accessories.
We’ve just seen the beginning of Pean, and the future promises so much more. With an “anything is possible” approach, Monique Pean is truly as stunning a woman as the elegant jeweled works of art she creates.
Happy New Year!
In a gentle way you can shake the world
THE POWER OF POSITIVE THINKING…
CARYN: be the change that you want to see in the world. ALEXIS: the federal/civil right to love/marry who I choose to and the right to divorce them. KIM: forget to hate and learn to appreciate. ANNABELLA: find a cure for cancer. CAROLE: end hunger. NILI: end child abuse and animal abuse. DIANNE: that every human on this planet has a happy and loving home and a family to share the happiness with in these hard times. NATASCHA: world peace; have our troops come home, and that a cure for AIDS be found. ROBERTO: no more war. ELAINE: no more hunger. ANDREA: no more terrorist attacks. MARILYN: peace amongst all nations. ROB: job security for all. SHELLEY: that our men and women fighting abroad come home safe and that they and their families be blessed with a sense of peace. ROBERT: I wish you generosity so you may share all the good things that come to you. SAMANTHA: when you plant a tree, plant three – one for shade, one for fruit and one for beauty. My wish is for the world to be kind to the environment. STACY: no more returns! World peace. MADISON: may your future be limited only by your dreams. PAMELA: find a cure for cancer and no more swine flu. MICHELLE W.: equal rights for all and prosperity for our nation. CLAUDIA: I wish for an end to world suffering. JENNIFER: for us all to see one another as equals, be respectful and compassionate. Cease fighting and war. Be charitable and patient as often as we can. RYAN: affordable college tuition. NICOLE: affordable health care for everyone. TOVA: let there be peace, love and understanding amongst us all. ASHLEY: no more animal cruelty. LORI: peace on earth now. EDDY: that the world be healed with music. GARNET: health care for all and an end to war for profit LILLIAN: that everyone gets along with each other and stops fighting. End world suffering. DR. DAVID: do unto others as you would have them do unto you.
Downtime with Caryn Hirshleifer
For Much of my early life, I imagined two things: first, that I was mistaken for another baby at birth, taken home by the wrong set of parents from the cocoon-like safety of the hospital’s maternity ward; and second, that any day, there could come a knock at my front door and my true parents would reveal themselves. It’s not that my mom and dad were uncaring; it’s just that retail and business consumed every waking hour of their attention, and I simply didn’t get what was so intriguing about those subjects. In fact, I found them downright mind-numbing, especially when the world around me was in flames — draft-cards were burning, bras were burning, Watts and Detroit were burning. No way I could focus on a Norell dress when the fabric of society was in tatters.
My survival strategy? Books. During those days when I could not abide talk of the clothing business, and retail was the only channel with reception in my kitchen, I would hide away and read. Reading took me places I’d never been and helped me understand life. And even though I’ve grown up, and have come to appreciate how creative and fulfilling business can be, reading remains my favorite way to unwind. A list of my top ten all-time-favorite escape hatches follows. Cheaper than travel, fat-free and easier to deal with than people – what more could you want?
Extremely Loud and Incredibly Close by Jonathan Safran Foer
Everything Is Illuminated by Jonathan Safran Foer
The Amazing Adventures of Kavalier & Clay by Michael Chabon
Bridge Of Sighs by Richard Russo
American Pastoral by Philip Roth
The Things They Carried by Tim O’Brien
As A Driven Leaf by Milton Steinberg
Downtime Downtown for Shelley Hirshleifer
With the intensity of work leading up to the holidays, I find that spending time with my family is the perfect way for me to relax. While Lori is basking in the St. Barth’s sun drinking French wines, you’ll find me in downtown Brooklyn drinking fine Italian wines and visiting my adorable grandchildren, Prue and Marco. You might not understand the correlation between the two so I’ll enlighten you. My son Andrew and my daughter-in-law, Francine, own and operate a very popular restaurant on Flatbush Ave called Frannys. There I can unwind and enjoy a perfect meal – a nice bottle of Lambrusco, a perfectly done clam pizza and one of Andrew’s great special first plates. I can also enjoy watching Prue steal all the pancetta off my husband’s plate while Marco, at the age of two, likes to click his zippy cup against my wine glass and say cheers. Family, clam pizza and Lambrusco – my recipe for unwinding.
Downtime with Lori Hirshleifer Sills
Work gets me feeling pretty stressed, and by the time vacation comes around, I’m beyond ready for St. Barths, my idea of paradise. One of the most physically beautiful places I’ve been to, St. Barths has incredible white beaches, calm crystal clear turquoise waters warm enough to bathe in, and perfect spots along the rocky coast to watch the sunsets. And set amidst this natural beauty are happening restaurants, huge yachts, some of the best shopping around, and people and celebrity-watching that is pretty indescribable, especially considering the island’s compact seven square miles of size. Seductively hip? Absolutely, but it’s the warmth and welcoming feel I get that makes St. Barths so magical for me.
Bibhu Mohapatra’s Intelligent Design
The term ‘intelligent design’ might conjure up images of Darwinists battling creationists. When we talk about the intelligent design of Bibhu Mohapatra, however, we’re talking about something everyone can celebrate – beautifully constructed, elegant cocktail dresses, stunning draped gowns with layers that create the sense of movement, and “softer more wearable clothes” as he describes them.
I had the pleasure of spending time with Bibhu when he was at Hirshleifers last week to present his spring/summer collection, the second ready-to-wear collection under his own namesake label. A quick look at his work leaves no doubt that he is a gifted designer and master technician. More about that in a moment, but first, let me share the personal qualities that make this young man so unique: his gentle understated elegance, his thirst for knowledge, and his inspiring story of pursuing his love of fashion, which took him from a Masters Degree in Economics to the Fashion Institute of Technology where he received the prestigious Critic’s Award for Best Evening Wear Designer of the Year. And then on to serve as design director at J. Mendel, a post he held for five years before launching out on his own.
Bibhu’s spring/summer collection explores the theme of inner beauty, something he clearly knows much about. Inspired by x-rays, he has created a beautiful linen blazer with delicate spine-like lace-up back. Blouses in jersey, linen and layers of organza, some in a blue and black print resembling x-ray film, are lovely. Stunning cocktail dresses and gowns, in buttery yellow charmeuse and white lace to pale green with appliquéd embroidered squares, create a sense of softness with layers draped and floating.
Inner beauty is joined by outer splendor. Now that’s intelligent design.
If it’s Peter Marino, it must be black Friday
You know it’s black Friday when Peter and his entourage come to call. That’s Peter Marino, internationally acclaimed award winning architect, designer of Hirshleifer’s 3200 square foot Chanel boutique as well as much of Americana Manhasset, New York personality, motorcycle aficionado, body builder, retail confidante and friend.
Every black Friday, Peter comes to call, first lunching with Americana Manhasset owner Frank Castagna, and then stopping by to check out Hirshleifers new offerings and to check in with his wife, Jane, who’s spent the afternoon shopping.
Dressed in biker black, Peter posed with Lori and Caryn Hirshleifer and in-store display artist Robert Heneks. Born to be wild? Maybe. Born to design? Definitely.
Ashley Olsen, a young woman of grace and elegance
I imagine that fame must be a really hard thing to navigate. One must be a strong individual to bear the burden of so many people projecting onto you their expectations of how great your life must be. That’s why Ashley Olsen, whom I had the pleasure of meeting last night, is so impressive. Ashley and her staff were at Hirshleifer’s to show the spring/summer 2010 collection of The Row, the three-year old fashion brand conceived by the Olsen twins. For those not up on The Row, the collection, named for the impeccable tailoring standards of Savile Row, offers hip beautiful T-shirts, blouses, leggings, blazers, pea-coats, all with a fit, luxurious texture and feel that makes the collection comfy and wearable.
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And while the collection has been the subject of rave reviews, what to me is even more impressive was Ashley, the young woman, whose warmth, grace and kindness illuminated the room, who took time to personally greet each and every fan who came there to be touched by her magic, to take home a little bit of her because it in some way made them feel better about their own life.
For me, it was magical to watch the interactions, to observe Ashley’s strength and courage as she gave of herself to those in the room in many different ways throughout the evening. It was an evening I will long remember. I was honored to be in the presence of such a talented young woman, and a person of great strength, warmth, grace and character.
On the road with KAUFMANFRANCO
On Wednesday, October 23, Isaac Franco was here to present the KaufmanFranco Resort 2010 collection. Isaac was traveling solo, as artistic collaborator and co-designer Ken Kaufman was enroute to the Far East to scope out resources for their next collection.
Kaufman and Franco make an incredibly talented design team and have succeeded in turning out collection after collection of sophisticated sensual pieces that speak to craftsmanship, detail and luxury.
Isaac Franco spoke to us about the Resort 2010 collection which he described as double-themed to reflect the melding of the two different design presences. “A meeting between Madame Butterfly and the Mata Hari, perhaps?” The delicate sensuous asymmetrical butterfly-winged hems of the dresses, shirtings and evening wear of the collection conjure up the image of Madame Butterfly, while the chunky vintage jewels that bedeck the pieces of the collection take us back to the infamous seductress, Mata Hari. The hues of the collection are cool and introspective with names like onyx, silver, blue steel, ice, optic white and indigo. Franco wants women to style the pieces for themselves, and so offers drawstrings and other accoutrements on their pieces that permit experimentation and invite customization and individuality.
As always, KaufmanFranco drew an impressively strong client response. Why not? The clothing is stunning and Isaac and Ken are fun, easy and professional to work with. And most important, they’re dog lovers. So, what can be bad? [Gallery not found]